Surf Medicine and Health

This chapter provides an overview of the influence of surfing on our health—beginning with activity requirements which can be broadly broken into sitting (45%), paddling (50%), and surfing (5%). These activity requirements influence the cardiovascular system, providing heart rates of moderate to high intensities. A range of energy systems are required, for example, from short sprint paddling bouts (ATP-PCr energy system) to long endurance paddle bouts (aerobic energy system). This consequently develops upper-body strength and endurance through paddling; lower body strength and power through explosive turning maneuvers; flexibility in key joints to enable body positions to complete maneuvers; and balance and proprioception (awareness of the body position and movement in space) through body positioning on a wave while standing on an unstable surface. The second half of the chapter explores the influence surfing has on injury (musculoskeletal and non-musculoskeletal types). Key locations of gradual onset injury are the shoulder and lower back; traumatic injury occurs at the head and face primarily due to lacerations; and competitive surfers have higher rates of knee injuries. Relevant non-musculoskeletal injuries are concussion, surfers’ ear (external auditory exostosis), and skin cancers. All injuries are detailed, and practical advice is provided for the reader.